🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.